2004 - First Quarter

It’s been a pretty good first quarter of climbing, and for those of you who have not been able to make the trips – or foolish enough to freeze your butts off as the case may be – here is a rundown of the excitement so far.

January saw a hardcore few bundled up and headed to T-Wall one frigid Saturday morning. Did I say it was cold? It was cold. Gary brought his chainsaw for a little maintenance, and we cleared a tree that had fallen across the approach path near the trailhead. That accomplished, we headed up toward the area between Razor Worm(5.9) and Goldenlocks(5.8+).

Gary led Goldenlocks and dropped a top rope on it and Competitive Edge(5.11c), and I led Razor Worm and rigged it and Cake Walk(5.10a). I distinctly recall losing all feeling in my fingers and feet on the way up. It was like climbing on a great big ice cube. The usual suspects were in attendance including Tom, Denmark, Davis, Frank, Gary, John and me. Everyone got to climb until their fingers were numb, well actually until they started to thaw, on some classic and challenging routes. The sun finally did come out, and it turned out to be a great day of climbing all to ourselves on what is normally one of the busiest areas at T-Wall.

February was originally scheduled to be a Mt. Yonah trip, but the conditions were wet and windy and a last minute decision was made to go to Currahee instead. It turned out to be a good choice, and the Slab Area was well sheltered, if still a little wet in places.

We set up a top rope in the area of All I Wanted Was a Pepsi(5.6) and used it to rap in on, and to climb that route and the adjacent Trad and True(5.8). Another line was set on Mikey’s Mantle(5.10a) and everyone had a good time working out the opening crux, an awkward balance move with matched hands and tenuous feet. The rest of the route is straightforward, albeit steep, face climbing.

Later in the day, we moved right on the wall and climbed Stranger than Friction(5.9), Kemoslabee(5.10) and Dust Bowl Daze(5.7). Davis also led By Gully(5.6). Mike and Karen brought a friend who had never climbed before, and she did very well much to her own surprise. No sunshine that day, but it wasn’t as cold as January at T-Wall.

The best trip of the year without a doubt was the March Spring Kickoff at Rumbling Bald, NC. This trip was Bryan Raffield’s idea and it was a good one. The rock was phenomenal – gneiss with banded inclusions that looked like zebra stripes from certain angles. There was something for everyone; steep face climbing with thin, balancey edges, splitter cracks and ferocious liebacks.

The first day we climbed at the Cereal Buttress. Denmark did a great job leading Frosted Flake(5.9+) which featured a fairly runout lieback section and was no easy breakfast! Carol Simmons did a fine job leading Granola(5.8) with its tiptoe smearing footwork at the undercling crux. Delicate work here to slot a must-have nut while on tenuous feet over a potentially ankle breaking pendulum. The remainder of the climb is a beautiful hand crack up the bizarre striped face.

Several groups led the very cool second pitch chimney of Fruit Loops(5.7). This is a must do pitch for anyone who visits the Cereal Buttress. It looks intimidating from the bottom, but it is all there and pro’s up well. Also on top rope that day were Breakfast of Champions(5.10d) and an unnamed route to the left of Frosted Flake with an opening sequence definitely in the high 10’s.

Saturday night we all gathered at the chalet that Tom provided and had quite the post-climb feast. Thanks to Sue, Barbara Osborne, Frank’s wife and all the rest who participated in food prep. It was great!

Sunday morning we returned to the cliff, this time at the area called the FlakeView wall. I am not sure what the name of the climb was that Denmark led but I admire his guts since the only pro available off the deck was an old bolt sans hanger that he hung a wire on, jammed the nut tight, clipped it and kept on going. Very nice.

We had two phenomenal days of climbing in near perfect weather and everyone had a great time. If you haven’t been there, Rumbling Bald should definitely be on your list.

Thanks to all who came out for the trips so far. If you have not climbed with us this year, there are more great trips coming up including Mt Yonah in April, the Red River Gorge in May and Sunset Wall in June. Check the calendar for dates, and we hope to see you at the crag. Now get out there and climb!

Wes Bailey
2004 Trip Coordinator