Red River Gorge KY Trip

May 16-18, 2003
Report by: Denmark Blount
To see some pictures from the trip, visit Eric's website.

The weatherman's prediction of rain could not dampen 11 climbers quest for Red River Gorge, Kentucky. We left at different times, 5am, noon (supposed to be noon but turned into 1:30pm), and 6pm. The early crew, Frank, Tony, and Eric, got in some climbs at Pebble Beach Friday afternoon with good weather.

Tom had a flat tire shortly after getting onto I-75 and expertly guided the Expedition to the side. In less than half an hour we had the flat changed and were on our way again. We arrived in time for pizza at Miguel's. Wes and John C. camped at Miguel's ($2 per night) and the rest at Middlefork campground ($12 per night "primitive"  a short walk to bathrooms, showers, dumpster  primitive means no electricity and no water, but there is a creek 50 feet away).

John B. and Shannon arrived at 1:30am at Middlefork and did not wake anyone up.

We planned to meet at Lady Slipper  Global Village the next morning at 9am. But the rain started just as we finished breakfast (oatmeal, bananas, and coffee). We regrouped and headed to Dip Wall in four cars. We passed through Nada tunnel on a one lane road. The first group asked campers on the side of the road where Dip Wall was and they said 2 miles down. The second group arrived, parked without asking the campers, and headed up the trail. The second group had completed a climb before the first group caught up and told stories of fording creeks and hiking for miles before realizing they were in the wrong place and turning around.

The attraction of Dip Wall (all trad) was six climbs protected by large overhangs that stayed dry even in a downpour. Two, Cindy Lou's Left Tube 5.9 * and Seus Seus Sudio 5.3 **, were closed for archaeological reasons. To the right there were climbers on Purple Cleaning Company 5.8 * when we arrived. They did not know the name of their climb but pointed to Cindy and Seus and said that is Green Eggs 5.7 * and Ham 5.7 *. There were chicken wire and signs saying closed for archaeological reasons in front of Green and Ham (really Cindy and Seus). So we headed for the last two climbs under the overhang: Whoville 5.6 * and The Grinch 5.4 *. Davis and Tom teamed up to lead The Grinch dihedral. The consensus was it was harder than its rating, maybe a 5.7. Whoville was a nice face climb with a pull-up move in the middle. We set up a top rope on a fun arete not in the book. We also set up a face climb not in the book with thin plates. But they were loose and crumbly and they broke off and we took it down.

After a day of climbing, we regrouped at one of the Natural Bridge State Resort Park's large pavilions. We had chips, cheese, and salsa, salad, jambalaya by John B., grilled chicken, apple and peach pie, and ice tea. Alcohol is not allowed in state parks but the beer drinkers were not deprived. A park ranger came by and said they do not allow the pavilions to be used after dark, but since it was raining and we were staying in park campgrounds, he would let us stay.

On Sunday we met at Roadside Crag at 9am (but Denmark was 20 minutes late). Roadside has several harder climbs under a large overhang and it sprinkled on and off much of the day. Some local climbers and out-of-towners were already there. They kindly set up top ropes on A.W.O.L 5.10c *** sport and Crazyfingers 5.10c *** sport for us. Both are slightly overhanging pocket face climbs. The consensus was AWOL was easier than its rating, maybe a 5.10a. Still, it was a challenge for the club members. And Crazyfingers was tougher. We did not try the 5.10d, 5.11b, nor 5.12b. At 12:30pm we called it a day and headed for home and arrived without incident before bedtime.

The next club trip is a one day affair June 7 to Foster Falls, TN. Almost all of the climbs are sport climbs. Then we are off for the summer: no club meetings and no club trips in July and August. But us die hards will be out there climbing and sweating individually.

Denmark Blount - 2003 Trip Coordinator

This page was last updated on 12/19/2004 .